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Jeogori

Ari Wikipedia
Jeogori
A white jeogori with red goreum (ribbon)
Korean name
Hangul
저고리
Hanja
赤古里
Revised Romanizationjeogori
McCune–Reischauerchŏgori

Jeogori tauka tseogori (Korea: 저고리) nya gari bagi atas asas hanbok, gari asal Korea, ke ulih dikena lelaki enggau indu.[1] Lelaki selalu ngena jeogori enggau baji tauka seluar lalu indu ngena jeogori enggau chima, tauka skirt. Iya nutup lengan enggau bagi atas tubuh orang ke ngena gari nya.[2][3][4]

Asal nama

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Jeogori tu udah dikena kenyau ari jeman kelia lalu bisi mayuh macham nama baka yu (유), boksam (복삼), enggau wihae (위해) dalam jeman Tiga Perintah (57 SM – 668 AD).[5]

Taja pan enda ditemu kemaya leka jaku jeogori berengkah dikena ngumbai gari nya, tang iya dipelabaka bisi ayan ba ujung jeman Goryeo urung jeman perintah Raja Chungnyeol. Dokumen sejarah keterubah ke nyebut pasal jeogori nya ba Cheonjeonui (천전의) ari Ratu Wongyeong, ti nyadi pengerami nguburka niang ketegal mai peti mati pansut ari istana. Dokumen ke ditulis ba taun 1420 maya perintah kedua Sejong Besai ngerikod jeokgori ( 적고리 ) enggau danjeokgori (단적고리).[5][2] Taja pia, bedau terang sekalika rikut nya transliterasyen hanja ari leka jaku Korea tauka pengaruh Mongolia. Sebedau jeman Goryeo, gari atas ti baka nya disebut wihae (위해) ba Silla.[6] Ketegal uihae nya transliterasyen jaku Silla, tukuh dialek baka uti enggau uchi agi mengkang dikena diatu.[2][3][4]

Gubah

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Gubah Jeogori: 1. hwajang 2. godae 3. kkeutdong (somae buri) 4. somae 5. goreum 6. u 7. doryeon 8, 11. jindong 9. gil 10. baerae 12. git 13. beguna

Ari asal, jeogori digaga ari kulit, kain bulu, sutera, rami tauka ramie.[7][8][9] Bala tukang perambu Korea moden kekadang ngena utai bukai baka renda.[7][10] Bisi berapa bansa jeogori nitihka kain, teknik bejait, enggau tukuh.[4][5]

Bentuk asas jeogori ngundan gil (길), git (깃), dongjeong (동정), goreum (고름) enggau lengan somae : gil nya bagi gari ti besai ba sepiak mua enggau belakang lalu git nya band kain ti ngerapitka kolar. dongjeong nya kolar putih ti ulih dibuai ti diengkah ba atas ujung git lalu umum iya dikuadratka. goreum nya tali kot ti dilekatka ba bagi tusu dikena ngikat jeogori.[11] Jeogori indu engka bisi kkeutdong ( 끝동 ), manset ti bebida chura ti diengkah ba ujung lengan baju. Bentuk jeogori udah berubah nitihka timpuh.[4]

Sejarah

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Suba ba Korea, jeogori dikena ba atas gari baruh.[7] Gambar jeogori ti pemadu tumu dikelala bisi ba mural Goguryeo.[12]

Siluet asal ungkup banbok jeogori bekunsi penyemaka enggau garipekayan orang nomad kelia di Eurasia ketegal pengawa betukar budaya ti dikembuan orang Korea kelia enggau orang Scythia.[13][14] Jeogori kelia ngembuan tukuh ti tebuka, kolar ti ngelintang ke kiba (좌임), lengan baju sempit, lalu panjai nyentuk ngagai pinggul ti sebaka enggau penteba ti ditemu ba gari gaya Scythian.[13][15] Sekeda jeogori kelia mega bisi penutup tengah mua sebaka enggau kaftan;[1] tukuh jeogori ti bisi penutup tengah tu tebal agi ditemu maya jeman Goguryeo lalu dikena orang ti bestatus baruh agi.[16] Jeogori keterubah iya ditutup enggau penutup mua, tengah; iya lalu berubah ngagai penutup kiba sebedau berubah baru ngagai penutup kanan (우임). [1] Ubah kuing kolar ari kanan-ke-kiba (iya nya penutup kiba) ngagai kiba-atas-kanan (iya nya penutup kanan), begulai enggau ngena lengan baju ti luas, ti ditemu ba mayuh jaket enggau kot nya ketegal pengaruh China kelia; pengaruh China tu ba jeogori dipeda sereta digambarka dalam lukisan Goguryeo.[17][18][19][3] Penutup jeogori ba sepiak kanan nya tiru ari jaket China.[20] Penutup ke kanan nyadi standard ti diterima kenyau ari abad keenam AD.[1]

Jeogori kelas Pemerintah Silla bisi kuing ari fesyen China pengaruh Tang dalam Dinasti Silla ulih Kim Chun-Chu (648 AD). Tang orang ke pemadu biasa semina ngena gaya jeogori asal ti bebida ari kelas Pemerintah Silla.[21]

Maya Jeman Goryeo (918–1392), jeogori nyadi pandak agi, enggau lengan baju ti ramping agi.[7]

Joseon

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Ba Jeman Joseon, pemanjai enggau gaya jeogori bisi berubah-ubah bepanggai ba fesyen ke diatu enggau penuduk sosial.[7]

Ba abad ke-16, jeogori indu nya panjai, lebar sereta mungkur pinggang. Pemanjai jeogori indu berinsur pandak. Sebuah heoritti ( 허리띠 ) tauka jorinmal ( 졸잇말 ) dikena nutup dada.[12] Tu ngambika setipak enggau gaya enggau rambut pelesu enggau skirt ti besai.[22]

Gaya moden

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Ba jeman Korea kontemporari, undang-undang sumptuari dalam kelas sosial ti bebida diangkat lalu chura, hiasan, enggau kain ti eksklusif ngagai kelas atas dibuka ngagai semua kelas. Tu ngemendarka penumbuh elemen reka bentuk tradisional ti mayuh macham dalam gaya hanbok . Taja pia, ba abad ke-20 enggau ke-21, pekayan asal Korea enda dikena ninting hari ulih tebal agi orang.[7] hanbok nyadi lebih agi diungkupka ngagai pengawa khas, baka pekayan pengerami tauka pengantin indu, ti mai ngagai maya diatu.[7] Maya pengerami betunang sida empu, indu tau ngena jeogori chura kalas.[23] Pengudah seduai iya jadi, indu tau ngena jeogori indigo.[23] Kelimpah ari nya, siluet moden suah agi ramping sereta mudah agi ari gaya sejarah.[7][24]

Galeri

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  • Jeogori for women
    Jeogori ungkup indu

Kereban sanding

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  1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 Lee, Samuel Songhoon (17 December 2015). Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition. Seoul Selection. ISBN 9781624120565. Retrieved 2 February 2021.
  2. ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 "저고리" 저고리 [Jeogori] (in Korean). Empas / EncyKorea. Archived from the original on 9 May 2012. Retrieved 2008-09-29.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: unrecognized language (link)
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 "저고리" 저고리 [Jeogori] (in Korean). Doosan Encyclopedia. Archived from the original on 16 June 2022. Retrieved 2013-10-15.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: unrecognized language (link)
  4. ↑ 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.3 "저고리" 저고리 [Jeogori] (in Korean). Empas / Britannica. Archived from the original on 9 May 2012. Retrieved 2008-09-29.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: unrecognized language (link)
  5. ↑ 5.0 5.1 5.2 Song, Mikyung. "Jeogori". Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture. Retrieved 2022-06-16.
  6. ↑ "太平御覽 : 四夷部二·東夷二 : 新羅". ctext.org. Retrieved 2022-06-16. 禮襦曰尉解
  7. ↑ 7.0 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 7.5 7.6 7.7 Levinson, David; Christensen, Karen (2002). Levinson, David; Christensen, Karen (eds.). Encyclopedia of modern Asia. Vol. 2. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons. pp. 120–121. ISBN 0-684-80617-7. OCLC 49936055. Penyalat nyebut: Tag <ref> tidak sah, nama ":5" digunakan secara berulang dengan kandungan yang berbeza
  8. ↑ "V&A · Jogakbo – traditional Korean patchwork". Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved 2019-05-10.
  9. ↑ 박, 선희 (1998) [1998]. "고대 한국의 복식 재료 : 가죽과 모직" [The Clothing Material in Ancient Korea - leather and woolen fabrics -]. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association. 53p: Types of leather and processed goods=83,82,20 Woolen Fabrics and processed goods=114,113,15. ISSN 1226-1548 – via KSI.
  10. ↑ "Hanbok ensemble with black lace Yeonan Kim Clan jacket and cream skirt - Victoria & Albert Museum - Search the Collections". m.vam.ac.uk. Retrieved 2019-05-10.
  11. ↑ "Traditional clothing". KBS World. Archived from the original on 2008-03-17. Retrieved 2013-10-17.
  12. ↑ 12.0 12.1 허 [Heo], 윤희 [Yeonhee] (2011). "조선 여인 저고리 길이 300년간 2/3나 짧아져" [The length of the Korean women's jeogori has shortened by 2/3 in 300 years.]. 조선닷컴 (in Korea). Retrieved 6 September 2019.
  13. ↑ 13.0 13.1 김 [Kim], 문자 [Munja] (1984). 고대한국복식의 원류에 관한 연구 : 스키타이계 복식문화를 중심으로 [A Study on the Origins of Ancient Korean Clothing: Focusing on Scythian Costume Culture]. EWHA Womans University Library (Thesis). Retrieved 6 February 2021.
  14. ↑ Kim, So-Hee; Chae, Keum-Seok (2018). "스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구,고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로" [Scythai's clothing type and style focusing on the relationship with ancient Korea] (PDF). Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association. 20 (1): 61–77. doi:10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61.
  15. ↑ Chang, Youngsoo (2020-04-30). "Empirical Review of the Scythian Origin Theory of Ancient Korean Costumes : Analysis of Commonalities and Differences Between Artifacts of the two Costume Types". Journal of the Korean Society of Costume. 70 (2): 188–208. doi:10.7233/jksc.2020.70.2.188. ISSN 1229-6880. S2CID 219652611.
  16. ↑ Shim, Hwa-jin (2001). "An Analysis and Comparison of the Characteristics of Traditional Hanbok and Everyday(daily) Hanbok Focusing on the Basic Dress". Journal of Fashion Business (패션비즈니스). 5 (5): 77–86.
  17. ↑ Yi, Kyŏng-ja; 李 京子 (2003). Uri ot kwa changsin'gu : Han'guk chŏnt'ong poksik, kŭ wŏnhyŏng ŭi mihak kwa silche 우리 옷 과 장신구 : 韓國 傳統 服飾, 그 原形 의 美學 과 實際. Na-yŏng Hong, Suk-hwan Chang, Mi-ryang Yi, 洪 那英., 張 淑煥., 李 美亮 (Ch'op'an ed.). Sŏul: Yŏrhwadang. ISBN 89-301-0048-1. OCLC 53475264.
  18. ↑ Yi, Kyŏng-ja (2005). Traditional Korean costume. Na-yŏng Hong, Suk-hwan Chang, Mi-ryang Yi. Folkestone, Kent, UK: Global Oriental. ISBN 978-1-905246-04-5. OCLC 62864892.
  19. ↑ Chae Keum-Seok (January 2005). "A Study on the Development of Jeogori's Structure and Changes of its Form -Focused on the Era of the Three Kingdoms to United Shilla Era" – via ResearchGate.
  20. ↑ Costumes d'enfants : miroir des grands : Établissement public du musée des arts asiatiques Guimet, 20 octobre 2010-24 janvier 2011. Aurélie Samuel, Musée Guimet. Paris: Réunion des musées nationaux. 2010. p. 68. ISBN 978-2-7118-5759-3. OCLC 700141350.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  21. ↑ Lee, Han-sang (2014). "신라 복식의 변천과 그 배경" [Transformations of Costume in Silla through Time and Their Background]. The Journal of the Research Institute for Silla Culture. 43: 137–171.
  22. ↑ Lee, Gyungja. "저고리" [Jeogori]. Encyclopedia of Korean Culture (in Korea). Archived from the original on 29 April 2021.
  23. ↑ 23.0 23.1 "Jacket". Victoria and Albert Museum. 1992. Retrieved May 9, 2019.
  24. ↑ Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Ed. Valerie Steele. Vol. 1. Detroit, MI:Charles Scribner's Sons, 2005. p82-85. Web.
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